Powershift Gearbox Galaxy Mk3

Car configuration discussions and experience sharing
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Tim1427
Posts: 3
Joined: Fri Aug 31, 2018 1:20 pm
Vehicle: Galaxy Mk3
Location: Bristol
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Powershift Gearbox Galaxy Mk3

Post by Tim1427 » Sun Jun 09, 2019 2:47 pm

I have been stripping down two of these getrag DCT 450 auto gearboxes to make up one good one to fit back into my 2013 galaxy. Serial numbers AV9R7000 AG and AH types

The failure of these gearboxes I have found comes from the poor choice of plastic type parts that make up the twin clutch and hold the thrust springs in place (£100.00 a set) and also I found one spring broken (£100.00 a set) as well in one of the two clutches I took a part. The other gearbox had one of the plastic twin magnetic selector magnet broken off its bonded fork selector? It would appear that these are just clip on items held in place with a recressed indent in each of the four sides and push fit on to the resin bond on to the metal fork selector. These need to be check for cracks on any strip down.

The failure of these components leads to contamination of the oil and blocking of the mechatronic valve controller and failure of drive unit even with two forms of oil filter.

The only answer is a check of the oil (service change at 30K intervals) and if any form of plastic bits observed in the oil then its a complete strip down of the gearbox as the design only enables the internal oil filter (£20.00) to be removed once the case of the gearbox has been removed along with the clutch.

If you have a good knowledge of engineering and tools (two leg bearing puller needed) you can strip these gearboxes down, clean them (every bit needs to be striped and cleaned) and obtain replacement parts (Ebay) and put them back together (youtube) are good places to look but look at more than just one item to get the info on how they come a part. Or buy an exchange gearbox to refit.

When I have more time I will put on some pictures of components and how I worked on taking these gearboxes apart and back together?

mondix
Posts: 3
Joined: Fri Mar 09, 2018 7:33 pm
Vehicle: mondeo mk4.5 2011 2.0tdci

Re: Powershift Gearbox Galaxy Mk3

Post by mondix » Mon Jun 10, 2019 7:04 am

waiting more story, and pictures 👍

Tim1427
Posts: 3
Joined: Fri Aug 31, 2018 1:20 pm
Vehicle: Galaxy Mk3
Location: Bristol
Contact:

Re: Powershift Gearbox Galaxy Mk3

Post by Tim1427 » Mon Jun 10, 2019 3:14 pm

Check the fault codes on the vehicle with Forscan to see what shows up?

To remove the gearbox you will need lift the front end and put the vehicle body work on axial stands to enable enough room to be able to drop the gearbox out.

First remove the under shield and front shield and drain oil from both sections of gearbox and check for any signs of contamination? (plastic bits in the oil which can be black or while in colour)?
You will need to remove the air filter box to gain access to the top of the gearbox. Disconnect and remove battery. Remove the gearbox electrical plug. Remove the battery tray. Disconnect the gear selector cable and pull out of mount. You also need to disconnect the oil filter to oil cooler two pipes which are tricky to unclip by squeezing the sides of the clip tabs and pulling off.
The cable harness around the top of the engine bay needs to by made free of the clips and gearbox.
Both front wheels need to be removed, along with the steering arm ball joints and bottom arm ball joints and under wing plastic shields. Once these have been removed you can remove both drive shafts.
Remove the metal inter cooler pipe across the underside of the engine.
Next you need to remove the exhaust support to the engine cat. Then undo the exhaust support (two bolts one each side of the rubber mount) at the rear of the engine subframe. Free the wiring harness across the rear of the engine subframe. Then remove the rear gearbox mount bolt securing the gearbox to subframe.

Remove the bolt that hold the steering rack to subframe and the suspension roll bar two bolts and nuts from each side. They can be tight. You will need to support the steering rack with rope to the car body
ready to drop the subframe? At the rear of the subframe loosen the two bolts each sides to the cross frame and then remove the two blots holding up the rear subframe (these are tight and you will need a long bar socket wrench). To the front of the subframe remove the cable ties holding the harness to the subframe ready to lower the subframe. Beware of the end cable ties up inside the subframe?

Support the subframe at the front on a jack in the middle and remove the front two securing bolts and again these are tight. Once these have been removed you are ready to start to lower the front of the subframe a little to gain access to the steering pump and access its 4 securing nuts/mounts and two electrical plugs? You will need to suspend the pump on rope to the car body when the nuts and plugs have been disconnected. Also on the inside of the frame is a bolt securing the pipe from the pump to the steering rack that has to be removed.
You can now lower the front of the subframe taking care that all the cable ties have been remove and the cable harness is free.
At the back of the subframe you will need to remove the cable blocks that feed the exhaust temperature sensors (they slide out of clip )and the bolt that holds the exhaust fuel injection unit on the opposite side to the subframe?
Once these are free and no cable or pipes still attached with the aid of a jack you can lower and pull the subframe forward and out from under the vehicle.

You now need to support the engine and gearbox both separatetly ( I used a jack and block of wood under the engine to spread the weight and a car engine hoist for the gearbox and a sling)
You need to remove all the bolts holding the engine to gearbox and starter motor. Not a lot of room to access them all?

With both engine and gearbox supported remove the top engine/gearbox mount and cable earth between body and the gearbox on passengers side.
At this point the gearbox should start to part from the engine (20mm) clearance needed to be able to lower the gearbox to the ground with care not to damage the oil filter or it can be removed prior?
Be careful as the gearbox is over 70 kg in weight.

Keithmac
Posts: 22
Joined: Fri Nov 23, 2018 6:51 pm
Vehicle: MK2 Kuga 2l dcti 163 Powershift 2013.

Re: Powershift Gearbox Galaxy Mk3

Post by Keithmac » Fri Jun 14, 2019 12:29 pm

This is our 2013 Kuga Powershift.

As well as the horrendously stupid use of plastic they also have dry joint issues in the TCU boards.

I am doing a 2017 gearbox conversion (6DCT451?). This has a standard damped flywheel and the gearbox is different to suit. Would not trust any part of my 2013 gearbox unfortunately.

It's been hard work, made belhousing adapter brackets etc but hopefully I will have the 2017 Powershift mounted up on Sunday.

Ford just washed their hands of all these failures, shocking really..

Image

mondix
Posts: 3
Joined: Fri Mar 09, 2018 7:33 pm
Vehicle: mondeo mk4.5 2011 2.0tdci

Re: Powershift Gearbox Galaxy Mk3

Post by mondix » Sat Jun 15, 2019 7:40 am

what problems come that clutch when you drive that?

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